Columnists / Meg Houghton-Gilmour

‘I hope that Gail’s fails’

By Meg Houghton-Gilmour  Wednesday Mar 6, 2024

Gail sure sounds like she’d be a nice old woman. Perhaps a childhood next door neighbour or a retired teacher who now runs a book club in the local community centre.

And I’m sure the original Gail, formerly known as Yael Mejia, is a very nice old woman. But do not be fooled by the Gail’s that is soon to open its first Bristol branch in Clifton Village in the coming months.

Gail’s is a nationwide bread baking conglomerate that turned over £181m last year. They now have more than 100 bakeries across the UK, 128,000 followers on Instagram and a partnership deal with Waitrose.

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For years they have been opening to much fanfare in affluent areas across the country, often just metres away from independent bakeries that suffer hugely in their wake.

Clifton Village is where the latest battle between indie bakery and corporate monster will take place; and I hope Gail’s fails.

On the indie side, leading the charge will be hard-working entrepreneur Hannah Catley, of the excellent and only relatively recently opened Catley’s on King’s Road.

Gail’s is opening just 150 metres away. Imagine the terror of knowing you’re going to have to compete with such a colossus.

Hannah Catley’s lemon meringue pie is a Lockdown Loaves favourite now on the counter at Catley’s – photo: Martin Booth

Also a stone’s throw from Gail’s new front door is Anna Cake Couture, a gorgeous indie cafe and cake shop that also supplies jaw-dropping creations for weddings, birthdays and other celebrations.

Then there’s Spicer & Cole, a Bristol-based group of four cafes who have a branch on Princess Victoria Street, just round the corner from the new Gail’s. Opposite them is Chandos Deli, the much loved local shop for Cliftonites that has been around for longer than most people can remember.

If the arrival of Gail’s forces any of these Bristol businesses to call it a day, the loss will be huge.

But Bristol has a long history of resisting big brands and boycotting those who haven’t earned their keep. So next time you’re in Clifton for a croissant, remember to vote with your feet.

This is an opinion piece by Meg Houghton-Gilmour, Bristol24/7’s Head of Audience. Subscribe here to her weekly food & drink newsletter.

Main photo: Martin Booth

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