Travel / 48 hours in
48 hours in the Forest of Dean
One of the most popular staycations in the UK and less than an hours drive from Bristol is the Forest of Dean.
Located in the leafy county of Gloucestershire, bordering the counties of Monmouthshire in Wales and Herefordshire in England, it’s fast becoming the ideal countryside escape for city and townfolk alike.
The forest is huge, according to the Woodlands Trust it is roughly 20,474.73 acres, meaning you can easily stumble upon something new, every time you wander out the front door. It’s also ecologically distinct from other nature hotspots in England. The forest has a deep working history, with many parts of it now producing sustainable timber.
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Most of the following recommendations are no more than a 20-minute drive away from each other, making 48 hours away plentiful. But be warned, much of the area in and around the surrounding forest has weak to no phone signal and the buses are few and far between.
So, if you’re looking for a break where you can be off-the-grid for a few days away from the far reaching arms of your boss, kids, or whatever physical manifestation looms – this trip is for you.
Where to stay in the Forest of Dean?
Nuthatch Retreat, Off Cinderford Road, GL15 4AJ
Recline in front of the outdoor fire or in the bath tub as you watch the sunrise – photo: Hannah Massoudi
Spectacular views over the area – photo: Hannah Massoudi
A screen unfolds from the ceiling, so you can catch all the latest shows. Less impressive was the film Woman of the Hour – photo: Hannah Massoudi
The team at Nuthatch Retreat have on offer a two-bed self-catering lodge that feels like a home away from home. Stepping into the lodge, the smell of essential oils immediately lifts the stress off of your shoulders.
The decor comprises neutral, warm tones and a vast collection of tropical plants dotted throughout the house. As you move through to the open plan kitchen and living room there is a handwritten card, milk, bread, butter and a cheeky bottle of wine. In the draws there are plenty of spices to choose from and a coffee bean grinder, so, you can have breakfast at home.
Sat on the hillside, the huge glass doors open up to beautiful views of the area and with a pair of binoculars at the ready on the table-side there is no excuse to not take it all in on a beautiful sunrise one morning. Books and boardgames of a huge variety tempt me to stay in for the weekend. In the garden there is a heated bath, which I admit we were not brave enough to try.
The lodge is ideal for a family, but as I was there with my mum, she got the master bedroom and I the quaintly decorated kids bedroom.
Severnside Press B&B, Newnham-on-Severn, GL14 1AA
If you are looking for an alternative that is dog friendly, Severnside Press is the one. The three bedroom old printing shop is most suitable for couples wanting a quiet getaway, straddling between the Forest of Dean and the Cotwolds. It’s also down the road from restaurant The Post.
This small B&B only hosts four rooms – photo: Hannah Massoudi
Severnside B&B is adorned with artwork from the hosts and locals – photo: Hannah Massoudi
What to do in and see in the Forest of Dean?
Pedalabikeaway, Cannop Valley, GL16 7EH
The most efficient way to explore the patchwork of the forest – photo: Hannah Massoudi
For an exploration of the forest, the best way is by bike. Despite living in Bristol, my feelings towards cycling are lukewarm at best. However, as Bristolians and its residents delight in an adventure on two wheels, it secures a spot on the list.
On the day we arrived for a cycle, the car park was full by 11:30am, so like the many others, we parked on the grass verge on the side of the road. It turns out half of the region were in attendance for a monthly meetup, slightly intimidating to say the least. Fortunately for novices like ourselves you can follow the traffic free, family friendly ‘Colliers Trail’ that loops round an ancient woodland.
For bike hire, we went for a Pedalbikeaway E-bike to ease us in, of course, if you’re feeling adventurous you can bring your own bike and tackle the other trails. There you can practice your off-road riding, with berms, rollers, bridges, boardwalks and rock gardens.
As well as bike hire, you can find a friendly cafe, bike shop, bike repair workshop, ex-hire bikes for sale plus toilets, showers and bike wash.
Mini wildlife safari with Ed Drewitt, various locations
Ed Drewitt’s passion for nature has spanned decades – photo: Hannah Massoudi
The forest is ecologically distinct from other nature hotspots in England, with a deep working history. The forest covers 40 miles square, with the Forest of Dean encompassing that and the surrounding area which is used as farmland or to produce sustainable timber.
Naturalist Ed Drewitt provides small groups a mini safari of the wildlife on offer within that zone, where you can catch sight of Pine Martens, Wild Boar and Deers. Remarkably, while the forest is a stronghold for the boars now, almost 800 years ago they were extinct in Great Britain, until a new population was released into the forest approximately 25-years-ago. Now they have up-to 2000 in that area.
We were lucky enough that a Fallow Deer crossed our path, before we later spotted a wild boar happily snoozing among the ferns before it’s incredible hearing alerted us to our presence and it ran away from prying eyes.
Cyril Hart Arboretum, Coleford, GL16 7EL
The arboretum is guaranteed to leave you feeling renewed – photo: Hannah Massoudi
To really experience the richness of the forest, stop off at the arboretum. Established in 1915 as a experiment for foresters to test the the suitability of newly discovered conifer species from China, they were able to see how they could evolve British forestry. They now have more than 200 tree species from across the world. Here you can find cherry trees, coast redwood acers and Chilean pine. The magic of these giants will take your breath away.
Puzzlewood, Perrygrove Road, GL16 8QB
Puzzlewood Gully – photo: Puzzlewood
This ancient woodland will leave you puzzling over its unique species of flora – photo: Puzzleword
You may recognise this one from some of your favourite shows such as Merlin and Star Wars: The Force Awakens. Its vivid tapestry of moss-covered rocks, twisted tree roots, and elevated pathways, has captured the imagination of visitors and artists for centuries.
In-person this is no less vivid or entrancing, the space borders feels ethereal, occasionally in a spooky and mysterious way.
We visited as soon as they opened on a weekday and managed to avoid people for the most part.
The Dean Heritage Centre, Lower Soudley, GL14 2UB
… photo: Hannah Massoudi
Learn about the history of the Forest from the Ice Age to the present day, visit the museum and gallery, explore the Gruffalo woodland trail or see inside a reconstructed Forester’s cottage.
Camp Mill has a history of almost 400 years, starting with King James I. The brook in Soudley Valley made this possible, powering waterwheels for machines. It’s industrial history doesn’t stop there, the site has been used for atleast six different purposes, including an iron foundry, leather factory and scrap metal yard.
Where to eat and drink in the Forest of Dean?
HIPS Social, 71 Newerne St, GL15 5RA
Try the lemon drizzle or treacle cake – photo: Hannah Massoudi
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On your way to Puzzlewood, stop off at the family-run HIPS for breakfast. We popped by before 8am and grabbed two flat whites, a lime and orange drizzle cake and a treacle and ginger loaf, for a sugar boost.
Tudor Farmhouse, High Street, Clearwell, GL16 8JS
Salt baked celeriac, spiced aubergine, miso glazed onions and charred sprouts – photo: Hannah Massoudi
Spiced rice pudding, clementine, pear and ginger sorbet and sprinklings of granola – photo: Hannah Massoudi
An outdoor seating area, perfect on warmer spring days – photo: Hannah Massoudi
A former working farm dating back to the 13th century, this is the epitome of a rural country pub and hotel: yellow stone walls, a fireplace and ceiling beams. The head chef creates award winning flavour-packed dishes sourced from only a 20-mile radius and the hotel’s own gardens.
As two vegans, there were plenty on offer, a mushroom soup with fresh farm bread and butter that warmed us up. For mains, we had the celeriac, spiced aubergine, miso glaze onions and charred sprouts. This was followed by a spiced rice pudding, clementine, pear and ginger sorbet and granola. This dinner was easily one of the best we’ve ever had.
The venue will also organise foraging trips, wildlife safaris, and floristry courses if you fancy. Once you have let your dinner settle, it is ideally placed for walking, cycling and touring the area. The property itself also has 14 acres of meadows full of rare plants are a protected Site of Special Scientific Interest.
The Speech House Restaurant, Coleford, GL16 7EL
Mining was a huge presence in the Forest of Dean area – photo: Hannah Massoudi
Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip visiting Speech House in April 1957 – photo: Hannah Massoudi
The Verderer’s coat of arms in the court room, now the dining area – photo: Hannah Massoudi
This AA Rosette à la carte restaurant hasn’t just got an expansive menu that would give decision paralysis to any poor indecisive soul, but it will also give you a deep sense of history and presence as you eat your meal in the Verderer’s Court, the most historic room in The Speech House where sentences were handed down more than 300 years ago.
Before becoming an independent, family-run hotel with 35 en-suite bedrooms, several with impressive antique master four-poster beds, this was a former 17th-century hunting lodge built for King Charles II in 1669. Even now, the Court is occasionally in session, siting on average only four times a year when matters concerning the Forest are discussed.
Many original features of this room still exist and even sit in the same position they have for many years including the original raised gallery.
This was one of the last places we tried out for food and after a long day we completely forgot to get pictures of food before we dived in!
Post, Horwood House, High Street, GL14 1AA
Roasted butternut squash with sage – photo: Hannah Massoudi
Borlotti beans, artichoke, rosemary, garlic and bitter leaf salad – photo: Hannah Massoudi
With weekly changes to the menu, the options from chef Frederick Page are unlimited. The dining space and kitchen is open-plan, so you can watch the geniuses at work in the kitchen. It feels intimate and modern, with touches such as the dining sets sourced from a local potter.
Having only opened at the end of 2024, it quickly has become a firm favourite among locals, with some visiting up to four times a week. The chefs fantastically flexible approach to availability and seasonality of its produce means they are also amenable to any dietary requirements. You can also take-away local produce, oils or bottles of European wine.
To find out more things to do in the Forest of Dean, visit deanwye.co.uk.
Main photo: Hannah Massoudi
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