Travel / 48 hours in
48 hours in Oxford
Oxford’s literary glamour, one that has attracted poets, authors, politicians and scholars from across the world, is unmissable. Karen Johnson spends 48 hours marvelling over the city’s political tales, striking beauty and contemporary significance.
Getting there
If you’re like me and still can’t drive, trains are the best way to get to Oxford. Great Western Railway services from Bristol Temple Meads, with one change at Didcot Parkway, will get you to Oxford in less than two hours. On Saturday mornings, travellers also have the choice to get the direct GWR service from Temple Meads to Oxford until the trial run ends in May.
Where to stay
Rhodes House
The wide windowsills inside the Rhodes House’s rooms make for a cosy reading nook
The will of a British mining magnate and southern African politician, Cecil Rhodes, led to the birth of what is now one of the world’s most prestigious scholarships, the Rhodes Scholarship. In the 1920s, the trust administering the scholarship built a mansion that was to be the headquarters of the scholarship and the trust. And today, centuries later, the east wing of the Rhodes House mansion can be lived in by tourists like you and me. Charming, historic and yet incredibly comfortable, there are 34 en-suite rooms available to rent, some also opening to a large courtyard out back to enjoy during warmer months.
S Parks Road, OX1 3RG / www.rhodeshouse.ox.ac.uk/venue-hire/accommodation
What to do
Bodleian Libraries
Visitors are not permitted to touch books inside the Old Bodleian Libray in Oxford
Walking under the watchful gaze of century-old books inside the Old Library of the Bodleian Libraries is surreal. Books here are fragile, crumbling, bound by chains and alarm-protected. What was founded by Thomas Bodley to house a humble collection of over 2,000 books has grown to 14 million, now stored across the many Bodleian Libraries in Oxford. Pioneers of various fields have spent hours studying in these reading rooms, some of which are still used by students in the city. Guided tours are the only way to explore the Old Library and Radcliffe Camera, which are still working libraries.
Broad Street, OX1 3BG / www.bodleian.ox.ac.uk
Christ Church
Light pours in from all four sides through high windows inside the Great Hall in Christ Church
A university and cathedral that is a visual treat for everyone, especially Harry Potter fans. The university’s Great Hall served as an inspiration for the majestic dining hall at Hogwarts in the famous film series. Students of Christ Church still dine here regularly with meals prepared in the university’s kitchen. A stained glass on one of the hall’s windows celebrates characters from Lewis Caroll’s Alice in Wonderland, which was inspired by the college dean Lidell’s daughter, Alice Lidell. A multimedia guided tour allows you to explore Christ Church at your own pace, pausing and taking in the beauty while listening to tales about every area’s significance.
St Aldate’s, OX1 1DP / www.chch.ox.ac.uk
Oxford Official Walking Tours
Oxford’s bridge of sighs was built to connect two neighbouring colleges in the city
Tales of kings, religion, poets, authors and scholars flow through the streets of Oxford like a river. The award-winning Oxford University & City Walking Tours by Oxford Official Walking Tours offer curated experiences through the city led by their knowledgeable guides who make sure you are left spellbound by the city’s history. Our tour guide Richard was witty, well-read and gave us a great insight into parts of the city that we would have never otherwise discovered. Look out for open gates as you walk by the city’s colleges, so you can peer into spaces that educate the world’s finest minds.
Starts from outside the Cool Britannia gift shop entrance on Broad Street, OX1 3DH / www.oxfordofficialwalkingtours.org/tours/oxford-university-city-walking-tour/
Where to eat
Treadwell Restaurant
Treadwell is a British restaurant in the heart of Oxford city
Hand-painted doodles cover the walls of this British restaurant in the heart of Oxford city. Easily accessible by foot and surrounded by shops, this restaurant is perfect for dinner on special occasions or when you’re in the mood for something grander than usual. From classics like bangers and mash and steak to global fusions like savoury churros and cheeseburger, Treadwell has something for everyone. Pair your food with their house wine or choose from a long list of tipples.
31 Cornmarket St, OX1 3AG / treadwellrestaurant.co.uk
Permit Room
If you’re craving refined cocktails but don’t want to splash too much cash, Permit Room by Dishoom should be your choice. A limited food menu that still has most of Dishoom’s classics, paired with a curated menu of drinks. Get their mango lassi punch for a tangy, sweet and heartwarming mix of Indian and British flavours, while enjoying the cafe’s low-light, high vibes setting.
North Bailey House, New Inn Hall St, OX1 2RP / www.permitroom.co.uk/locations/oxford
Modern Art Cafe
Hand-shaped chairs inside the Modern Art Cafe go well with the site’s quirky vibe
It is rare to find food so delicious in the basement of an art gallery. But then, it is also the basement of one of the country’s leading contemporary art galleries. The quirky, colourful Modern Art Cafe with hand-shaped benches and illustrations of thumbs and hands framed on the wall is different to other Oxford buildings. But a humble menu of wraps, croque monsieurs, soups, sandwiches and jacket potatoes makes this place as inviting and joyous as the rest of the city. Its colour and funk add to the joy of eating here, and it is perfect for a quick lunch before or after visiting the gallery upstairs.
30 Pembroke Street, OX1 1BP / modernartoxford.org.uk/visit/cafe/
All photos: @fujimemorybox / Alston D’souza
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