Restaurants / Reviews
Root, Wapping Wharf – ‘One of Bristol’s best dining experiences’ – restaurant review
When we entered Root, we looked like a disaster: drenched from head to toe. But one step inside and the toasty interiors were hugging us. The combination of subtle ambient lights and ample natural lighting felt like the perfect setting to taste nature on a plate. Root opened in Wapping Wharf in 2017, replacing a fried chicken joint, with its success leading to a second being opened in Wells by head chef Rob Howell and his wife and manager Meg Oakley.
Ditching the meat and fish options on the menu, we each ordered two small plates and a snack plate of house bread, butter and oil (£5) for the table. The slices of bread were soft and a pillowy dream.
From the small plates, I chose the grilled Jerusalem artichoke, lemon brown butter with hazelnut (£10) and the roast delica squash on a bed of almond curry sauce with citrus pickle and mint (£10). Of the two, I’d order the artichokes again in a heartbeat. The char on the artichokes gave them a tint of nuttiness that tasted divine when paired with the sour butter and crunchy hazelnut crisps. Each time I took a bite, my taste buds were left craving for more: more of the char, more of the crunch and more of the butter. The balance is what stood out and made this dish a winner for me. With the squash, however, I was left in a dilemma. I loved it – the squash itself was soft and when paired with the silky almond sauce tasted phenomenal. The only flaw, if I had to pick one, was the lack of textural variation – something that would have further elevated this culinary experience.
Towers of potatoes, crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside made for a hearty side
My friend, who is vegan, ordered the celeriac pastrami with Russsian dressing and red cabbage (£9.5), the crispy pink fir potatoes dunked in peppercorn sauce with pickled shallots (£10.5), and the homemade cola (£4.5). The dressing with the celeriac dish had a hint of spice that gave an excellent undertone to the vegetable.
The potatoes were gooey on the inside and crispy on the outside, and also had a spicy undertone thanks to the rich peppercorn sauce tucked beneath the tower of potatoes. An honourable mention to the glass of cola that was zesty and fresh.
When dining at a restaurant that has been featured in the Michelin Guide, you can’t afford to miss out on any course – especially the desserts. Despite being full to the brim, we decided to share the pear and ginger cake, topped with poached pear slices and served with a silky cashew caramel (£8).
I still have dreams about that silky, smooth sauce under the squash
The dessert was immaculate – there was a hint of ginger, sourness from the pear and abundant sweetness from the caramel. A little more ginger would have definitely been ideal to amp up the spice, but the dessert was still a perfect way to end the meal.
In all ways, Root is rooted in its love for all things veggie. When we did smell fish and meat from their open kitchen, we weren’t pleased. For a moment, we wondered if Root would do even better if it were only vegetarian and vegan? With that thought lingering in our minds, we took our coats before leaving after what remains undoubtedly one of Bristol’s best restaurant experiences.
Minimalistic painting of vegetables dominate the interiors of Root
Root, Gaol Ferry Steps, Wapping Wharf, Bristol BS1 6WP
All photos: Karen Johnson
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